Cappadocia

Cappadocia has one of the most incredibly unique landscapes we have seen. Created by three big volcanoes spewing lava onto the planes below, over time the various materials in the lava have eroded leaving a strange mix of different heights and colours. Added to this is the labyrinth of dwellings and monasteries that date back to ancient civilisation which are riddled through the soft rock like ant farms. It looks a bit like Tatooine (Luke Skywalkers home planet for all you non sci-fi nerds) and I had heard it was the location for filming but have since found out it was filmed in Tunisia. Nonetheless it felt like another planet.

lovely calm wild dog watching the sun set.

We had a limited time before our flight home so we booked a guided tour of the area instead of having to sort it all out ourselves and feel stressed about missing stuff. It worked out pretty well and probably not that much dearer. We also got a free day at the end to do our own thing. The tour guide was quite fun and had a good knowledge of the history surrounding the area. Most of the sites had an early Christian history featuring churches and monasteries cut into rock with well-preserved frescoes. Often the eyes were erased from the religious figures on the walls to conform to ideas against figural representation for icons. Apart from this, considering they were from the 9th to 11th centuries they were very well preserved.  Patterns associated with Muslim art were also mixed in with the more typical figural Christian shtick of saints and angles. Also some church frescoes show drawings hinting at pagan beliefs with animals and natural cycles being represented.

Most of the sites are completely open to wander around which is really fun if you like to explore. We didnt have a torch on our first day so couldn't have a good look around but on our day off we went for a walk through a place called pigeon valley and explored the tunnels and old pigeon roosts dotting the valley walls. The pigeons were kept for their droppings which were collected to fertilize the fields while the whites from their eggs was used to glaze the frescos. 

the lovely colors at dusk

The variety of eroded shapes
 are like clouds for daydreamers

sampling the super sticky goat milk ice cream.

a walk through pigeon valley. Very quiet and a little eerie.

Cramped passage in underground city

fairy chimney houses.

ventilation shaft  in underground city.

underground city

One of the most fascinating spots we visited was the underground city. The tunnels were created initially by the ancient Hittites people and later expanded by Christian communities to use to hide during times of danger from invading armies. They are surprisingly extensive and deep. We went seven storeys down but we have heard some are up to twenty. We peered down one poky tunnel that  we were told joined up to another underground city 9km away. Hunched over and crawling in the smaller tunnels it reminded me of the descriptions of warren life in Watership Down. Like the rabbit warrens in the book these were also built to be defended with sneaky traps and heavy rolling rock doors.

This rock showed evidence of being used by the

 early Christians for punishment.

 Me getting in the spirit of things.

cover image on our new self help book

We stayed in a hostel that is really worth recommending . It has just been taken over by a new owner who is changing its name to the "White Horse" hostel and plans to commission his sculpture friend to create a giant horse from rock to stand over the entrance gate. Its rooms are in caves with carpet and power and are quite comfy. Being dug in the rock we were told the temperature inside remains fairly constant all year round. There is a common part with a pillow area where the owner and his friends are often about and are good to chat with. They can offer good advice of things to do in the area and often can organise good deals through people they know. On our last night there the owner brought out his shisha (They call it a Nargile)  and offered us to try his special blend of fruit tobacco. Nice and smooth for our non smoking wuss-burger lungs. Orange blossom flavour.





On our free day after two days of racing about to different sites we took it easy and went for a hike north of the town to an area called Pigeon valley. It was very still and quite as we left the town. At midday we heard the call to pray echo down the silent canyon. Very pretty.
It was great to be able to explore the different tunnels and caves that dot the valley. We found some wild grapes and just enjoyed relaxing    

Apple tea break.