We spent a night in Mostar after a cold ride then great luck lift in a truck from Sarejevo. The old town has been beautifully restored since the destruction of the Bosnian war. The wonderful bridge is the well known symbol of the restoration but the surrounding alleys and waterways are just as lovely. Lots of cafes and restaurants and pretty touristy but not too crowded when we were there.
The gallery next to the bridge had pictures and a short doco on the war and restoration. It was shocking to see the destruction in the town's so recent past. There are still lots of ruined buildings and sniper roosts with scattered shell casings. Quite chilling and again so different to the laid back feel of the town now.
We stayed in a B&B run by a local couple who spoke english. Chatting to the husband as we arrived his measured manner changed when we let him know we were from Melbourne. "You're fucking kidding mate, I was in Port Arlington!" His voice changing to a thick Aussie drawl speckled with slang. They had moved to Australia to escape the danger of the 90's conflict and had returned recently, leaving their grown kids still back in Melbourne studying. It was comforting and funny to hear the roughness of an Aussie accent again.
Equally comforting was a dose of kitsch TV in English = we caught an awesome 1960's sword and sandal film in the mode of Jason and the Argonauts on the box. Great way to prepare for our next epic saga on the Adriatic sea. I bags being Hercules!
