Thursday 25 November 2010

Rila Monastery

Rila Monastery was founded in honour of Saint Ivan of Rila, the patron saint of Bulgaria. In English he is usually called Saint John because apparently Ivan is the Bulgarian version of the name John (!!), these names don't sound very similar to me so I will stick with "Saint Ivan". Saint Ivan is a legendary Bulgarian hermit who lived over 1000 years ago. He was a herder who became a monk when he was 25. Eventually he became a recluse, living in complete solitude (apart from wild animals) and without material possessions in a tiny, cold, uncomfortable cave, where he devoted himself to prayer. According to legend, wild animals came right up to him without fear, and birds would land in his hand.

We took a day trip from Sofia out to Rila Monastery, heading first to the nearby cave where Saint Ivan lived. The cave was small and dark, and required exiting out of a tiny hole in the top in order for us to "cleanse ourselves" of our sins. A bunch of young male hooligan tourists were yelling and chest-beating at the exit to the cave as we arrived, obviously relishing their clean slate.
         Kari climbing out of Saint Ivan's cave (sin free!)
Rila Monastery is over 1000 years old (re-built at various times), believed to have been founded by students of Saint Ivan of Rila. The size and grandeur of the complex is certainly in sharp contrast to Saint Ivan's miserable wee cave! Outer walls of the cathedral are covered in fascinating murals, and the inside of the cathedral is decadent and impressive, it felt like every square millimetre was filled with ornate and intricate detail (and lots of gold). The entire place and setting felt old, with evidence of an old way of life happening around the complex - a donkey was led in carrying a load of fresh produce, work of artisans was on display and the Monastery felt like a haven for traditional Bulgarian culture as well as religion. The practice of Christianity felt strong throughout Bulgaria, and when we visited churches in Sofia they were filled with people in prayer, purchasing icons, talking to priests, etc - quite different to a church filled with tourists taking snaps (Notre Dame was the worst for this!)


Above = tiny doorway at a little convent church we visited on the way (with a lovely window and rather frightening fire & brimstone murals)


Spot the monk on a mobile!!

naughty but gorgeous resident puppy


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