Northern Croatia

We left Hungary still following the Danube trail into the very top of Croatia, a region called Slavonia. Croatia currently marks one of the borders of the Schengen area so things were a bit more official as we pulled up to the border gates in comparison to our other crossings. We had stayed a few days over the allowed 90 days in Schengen but had heard generally this is overlooked if it's obvious you're travelling - these rumours held true for us and to our relief there was no mention of our overstay. Having left the Schengen area we officially need to stay out for 90 days before we return, but again we have heard its not very strictly enforced so won't let it control our plans.

Slavonia saw fierce fighting during the Balkan conflicts of the 90s and the scars are still evident.The area is known as Croatia's breadbasket, consisting mostly of vast areas of agriculture and small rural towns. It's a strange, moving contrast having these lovely sleepy towns mixed with signs of brutal modern warfare like bullet pock marks and bombed homes. Despite the war-ravaged look of much of the region it felt like the hostile times belonged to the past and people were smiley and kind. We got lots of encouraging toots from cars and friendly waves. We felt like perhaps they were happy to have visitors return after their isolation during the conflicts. We especially felt this in the young people we met - that they were keen to interact more with the rest of Europe and beyond.

Signs indicating suspected mine areas. 

We were very wary of the danger of landmines which still remain from the war. Many have been cleared but perhaps because the work is so painstaking lots of areas are marked with signs warning you not to enter in case you are unlucky. It gave us the heebie jeebies and we were careful to camp in areas that had been plowed or farmed recently. Landmines are terrible things and thinking about them kept leading me to dwell on the most awful side of human nature and what people do to one another. We felt terrible that local people have to live with this danger daily, it must be so stressful for parents who have children roaming about. At one point Matthew stopped to go to the toilet next to a cornfield and as he slid down the embankment a loud bang rang out. It was a bird scarer but gave us a huge fright and sent us into fits of nervous giggles!

bleak deserted bomb-blasted house

A larger town we passed through, Vukovar, was particularly sad and we were shocked by the extent of the damage that still remains. I couldn't stop shaking my head and ranting about the useless and despicable nature of war. The water tower pictured has been left as a memorial of the war but really there is not much of the town that doesn't still show obvious damage. It wasnt just public infrastructure affected but lots of apartment blocks and houses are still pocked with bulletholes and some were destroyed completely, remaining a pile of rubble and parts of walls. We stopped to get supplies in a shop that had a huge bombed out factory and silos looming behind it. It was strange being served by the young attendent, upbeat and normal while we felt shaken and a bit in awe of the apocalyptic scenes. It made us wonder at people's resilience.