hebrides

Last weekend, we spent three nights moseying about the Hebrides - from Skye, to Harris, to Uist, then back to Skye.

Matthew waiting for the ferry, slightly bleary eyed after a rough night camped on Skye with strong and gusty winds in an incessantly flapping tent.

On the ferry to Harris

View of Tarbert, where the ferry dropped us on Harris

Fake smile, feeling sorry for myself approx five minutes into the day's ride after battling a relentless headwind up a steep hill.

On Harris's narrow main highway. Saw a sign warning "otters cross here "

Wee lambs who cheered us up while we struggled against the Southerly.

Things started to get better (and beautiful) on the west coast of Harris

More lambies

A 5000 year old, two-metre high Pictish stone, plus a very relaxed highland cow (and, says Matthew, a goose if you look closely). The stone used to form part of a ring of similar stones which were perhaps used for rituals and mysterious neolithic activities a la stone henge.

Amusingly-named "Toe Head" in the background, just before arriving in Leverburgh to get our next ferry to Berneray

On Berneray we headed straight from the ferry port to find a spot to camp. Number one priority: shelter from the wind!

We found a spot between the sea and the road - not very hidden, but well sheltered, and no one seems to mind a camper in Scotland (the Scots are wonderfully casual people!) (plus wild camping is legal here) (but not in the rest of the UK)

Our lovely new tent with giant vestibule - excellent for sitting idly, cooking, storing gear and hiding from bad weather

Sunday morning starts well with this cute pony and a short ride from Berneray to North Uist. But soon the wind gods are back with similar vengeance to Saturday, and this time coupled with heavy scenery-destroying mist and cheer-destroying drizzle.

Cute thatched house

Deserted mansion in the mist.

Some sort of tower, probably a billion years old - we were too tired, grouchy and wind-destroyed to be very impressed. It looks quite impressive and moody now!

This is a fairly typical view of Uist on Sunday - what you can't see is the roaring wind (direct headwind!) which we battled nearly all day. It was a tough day! But it wasn't a terribly bad day, we amused ourselves with exaggerated complaining and making up mournful/ridiculous Scottish folk songs about the wind ("O wind, I hate you, kill me now.." to be set to mono-tonal bagpipes droning in the background).

Things started to look up at the end of the day when we rounded the loop at the bottom of North Uist and finally a tailwind was ours! Suddenly we were zooming along and the roar of wind in our ears was gone at last. Then we came upon this ancient Cairn which was once a sort of communal tomb for whoever lived in this place 5000 years ago, which was fascinating to imagine - apparently the island was all covered in woodland back then.

Camera flash lighting up the tunnel into the Cairn. Terrifying! I was only just brave enough to creep up to the entrance, while Matthew was seriously considering exploring inside with his headlamp - but he was too lazy to go and get it from the bottom of the hill (we were quite weary by this stage).

On to find a camping spot, with usual challenge of getting out of the wind. We found a spot on the gloomy moors and used our last peanut of strength to put up camp before relaxing in the much loved vestibule. The next morning, we rode about five minutes to Loch Maddy ferry port, bought chocolate and yoghurt and cheese (dairy anyone?) and sat down to eat it and wait for the ferry.

The strong southerly wind was consistent over the three days apart from small reprieve on the second night. We had heard that a route taking you South to North on the Hebrides is preferred when traveling by bike because of the prevailing winds. We didn't heed the advice and although the trip was still great fun, the wind can be a real pain to fight against all day. We would definitely recommend looking into an areas prevailing winds before doing a longish ride and try to work with them if you can.

This is probably our last cycling adventure before we amble across the channel to Europe in three weeks time - eep!

On Skye, homeward bound after a relaxing cup of tea and meander in Portree.