Dubrovnic sketches

the life of riley (between steep climbs)

The photos below are mostly taken on Peljesac which is an island-like peninsula off the Croatian coast. We spent a few days basking by beaches, hauling ourselves up steep inclines away from beaches, then barrelling down hills to other beaches. We imagined the Croatian islands would mean nice, flat riding around the coast but this didn't turn out to be the case. The islands are formed from mountain tops which have become islands due to a rise in sea level once upon a time. These partially submerged mountains make for steep island cycling and beaches are all at the bottom of plunging mountainsides.

 

 

We took the coastal gravel road on our return journey back across the peninsula to the mainland. There were amazing views and no traffic as the road was pretty rough (even involving lifting the hefty bikes up winding stairs through a village at one point). It also meant we got to see a lot of the vineyards that were bursting with fruit and sample a few sneaky grapes. It was harvest time so very busy with locals out working the fields. We met a family taking a break from the midday sun to have lunch in the shade. The old father led us to his adult son who could speak English and we had a drink of their home made grape rakija. It's a schnapps made from a white grape and includes eight herbs which he pointed out were growing about. It tasted good and was apparently medicinal. The son explained that this area is known for its wine, with excellent grapes resulting from the steep sun-facing hillside plus extra sunlight reflected from the sparkling water below. Despite having no prior interest in wine tours/tasting/talk, we nevertheless found it really nice to learn a bit about the process firsthand in such a casual way. 

(the praying mantis is for you nich)

 

Coasting

Here are a bunch of photos from a day spent moseying down from Mostar on our way to the Croatian coast. Turkish coffee, pomegranates, the amazing village of Pocitelj, caterpillar road traffic..

 

Mostar

We spent a night in Mostar after a cold ride then great luck lift in a truck from Sarejevo. The old town has been beautifully restored since the destruction of the Bosnian war. The wonderful bridge is the well known symbol of the restoration but the surrounding alleys and waterways are just as lovely. Lots of cafes and restaurants and pretty touristy but not too crowded when we were there.

The gallery next to the bridge had pictures and a short doco on the war and restoration. It was shocking to see the destruction in the town's so recent past. There are still lots of ruined buildings and sniper roosts with scattered shell casings. Quite chilling and again so different to the laid back feel of the town now. 

We stayed in a B&B run by a local couple who spoke english. Chatting to the husband as we arrived  his measured  manner changed when we let him know we were from Melbourne. "You're fucking kidding mate, I was in Port Arlington!" His voice changing to a thick Aussie drawl speckled with slang. They had moved to Australia to escape the danger of the 90's conflict and had returned recently, leaving their grown kids still back in Melbourne studying. It was comforting and funny to hear the roughness of an Aussie accent again.

Equally comforting was a dose of kitsch TV in English = we caught an awesome 1960's sword and sandal film in the mode of  Jason and the Argonauts on the box. Great way to prepare for our next epic saga on the Adriatic sea. I bags being Hercules!

Riding in Bosnia

We were peddling our way from Sarajevo to Mostar one hilly, rainy, cold day when a guardian angel of a truck driver asked where we were headed and enthusiastically suggested we put our bikes on the back of his truck and get a ride with him to Mostar. He only spoke a little English and also some German but was delightfully friendly and jovial. Cold, wet and struggling, we couldn't believe our good luck and spent a happy hour or so roaring along in his truck with his friend, all of us munching on a bag of yummy figs. The truck driver told us something that we feel we are hearing from many people in this part of the world. He explained it this way: "Here, the people - very good. Muslims? Very good. Christians? Very good. Jews? Very good. Politics? Psssshh!!! Scheisse!!" (shit in German) He explained that he was Muslim, his friend/partner/wife (we were not sure) travelling with him in the truck was Christian, and declared "no problem!" and planted a playful kiss on her cheek as she wriggled away.

      

                                                                                                 Low cut gumboots!